Mimi & Jacques’ Bon Voyage 2

Aoraki Mt. Cook, New Zealand

Mt. Cook, New Zealand’s tallest mountain seen from Hooker Lake this morning. I’d been looking forward to this trail hike for many months. In real life I’m not much of a hiker. Heck, there aren’t even any mountains in Florida where we live. But, I had worked up to this for months following a right knee replacement so I was excited for the payoff. After all, this is the most celebrated trail, known as a track here, in New Zealand.

All the research said: get there early. Not crazy early, but early. So, as I looked out our window it looked like a promising day for this three hour excursion.

It was just Māori Mama and me as Mimi opted out due to the suspension bridges on this hike. The temperature just before 8 am was 64 degrees/18 Celsius.

Preparing was simple: wide brim hat, sunscreen on my face, wind breaker and the Camelbak water backpack, which I’ve been lugging around since Florida.

So far so good. Just before 8 am and easy parking. I’m ready for the 11km/6.9 mile hike to the base of Mt. Cook.

It was windy and sure to be a dusty day as there has been so little rain here lately. Not a lot of people on the trail yet, so it had just the right vibe on the way toward the end point at Hooker Lake.

No need to wonder which way to go. There was Mt. Cook still partially shaded pointing the way.

A glacial lake became evident about 20 minutes in. Mueller Lake was fed from the glaciers above and narrowed into the milky blue Hooker River not far ahead where the first suspension bridge carries you over.

It was just me and a couple taking pictures on the first bridge and admiring the killer view.

I kept a brisk pace on the way out wanting to get the heart rate going, especially knowing no one was there to slow me down. Just taking in the magnificence of this Southern Alps experience. By now, we’ve seen the Southern Alps from all directions for the past three weeks. North as we made our way onto South Island. From the West as we helicoptered onto Fran Josef Glacier. South as we basked in Milford and Doubtful Sound fiords. And now, East which shows off more glaciers than any of the views, at least in summer.

For dedicated runners this place in the morning and late afternoon must be a great jaunt. Not too difficult and not crowded before or after the tour buses that are a real buzz kill no matter what part of vacationing you are enjoying.

The second suspension bridge was longer than the first one. Since the winds weren’t too bad yet, and since there weren’t many on the trail, it was fine to cross. I didn’t get any heebie jeebies.

The bridge was severely damaged during a storm in 2019. There is erosion on both sides which affects its structural integrity during high winds. They close it down at 50 mph/80 km winds. Phew!

And not far off the bridge you get great views of Mt. Cook.

I never saw an animal on this whole hike. I did see a few droppings, but just as I’ve noted before, other than birds this has not been a country with a lot of visible animals as we expect we’ll see in Australia. And having now visited several national parks here no dogs or pets are allowed, keeping in line with their staunch anti-predator campaign.

By the third suspension bridge I was holding onto my hat and eating some dust, but it wasn’t too awful, although the bridge swayed a bit more.

And about an hour and 15 minutes in there was Hooker Lake beneath Mt. Cook. The lake was milky blue due to the sediment from the melting glacier. Hardly anyone was there and it was just after 9am.

I just stopped and admired the view and the natural wonders around me. Those prickly plants are called Giant Spaniards and are common in this alpine setting, who knew?

My balance and rookie climbing skills got a workout when I traversed some difficult terrain just to see if I could do it. I survived and appreciated all the hard work again that so many have put in to help me regain physical form post op. Here’s to all of you, especially Mimi who played nurse maid during those most painful weeks. I made it to the mountain!

While I’m limited in my geology knowledge the picture below certainly looked like petrified wood as I navigated off trail.

Here’s another one in case any of you readers want to weigh in- is that petrified wood?

The hike back was packed with hikers. Plenty of brushing up against people moments and yes, a tour bus group that made me appreciate getting out early to enjoy and avoid the crowds.

Everyone there all trying to get a glimpse of the ever decreasing glaciers that make the Southern Alps special.

By 11am as I was leaving all 200 parking spots were full and the road leading up to it was lined with cars for at least a mile on each side. Good time to escape and cherish the memory of the 15 thousand step hike at the Hooker Valley Track. If you’re coming to New Zealand this is a must stop if you love nature and a nice manageable hike.

The village we are staying in isn’t much. We’ve got a nice room with a full kitchen since food here is almost non-existent except for an expensive hotel that offers a buffet meal to cope with their tour groups. No thanks. Although we did stop there for a drink one night.

Tomorrow off to Lake Tekapo. It’s supposed to be THE place to see the stars in total darkness. And after many days of perfect weather I’m a bit worried about a cloudy forecast that could put the kibosh on our star gazing 🤞.

For now Kia Ora 🇳🇿 from Aoraki Mt. Cook enjoy the windy moments of nature from Hooker Lake.